Vets who have been taught about them along with animal chiropractors and the most experienced and well respected and successful trainers, all agree that it is one of the safest to use. This is because of the way it works, displacing pressure evenly in small points around the neck and NOT applying pressure/causing damage to the trachea, as many other commonly used (and often toted as ‘more humane’) collars do. Many believe it was made to mimic another dogs correction, I believe this makes sense as well. This being said, the most ideal use is as a form of gentle communication before any correction should happen, it’s not just about correcting dogs.
The prong collar is actually the least likely to cause injury even with improper use, you would not be able to cut off oxygen or pierce hide which many people are afraid of.
The ugly pictures of holes in a dogs neck that often gets circulated to tell people they’re dangerous is actually from an embedded collar (so neglect and abuse – being left on for months as the dogs neck grows) this happens with every single tool because it is the human neglecting the animal, not the tool doing the damage.
As amazing as this tool can be for many dogs, it is NOT the RIGHT one for EVERY dog which is why there are so many tool options out there. If there is an issue with dog aggression, this may or may not be the way to go, sometimes it’s still good but there’s also the risk of it intensifying their fight response once in a fighting state – this is usually only the case when a dog hasn’t been properly introduced to the collar and has become used to constant pressure.
the same mechanics of a choke chain but are superior. 1. Because you can fit it properly to each dogs neck (sitting snug at the top of the neck, behind the ears. And 2. The nylon moves smoother than chain, often chain can stick a bit so you can’t be as fluid with your
communication. This is especially important for teaching light leash communication.
This collar is the safest best option for dogs that have potential to try and escape their leash or for dogs working through aggression issues where you may need to get them out of a fight/fight mode. This is because the best way to get a dog off of another dog if they’re clamped on, is to cut off air supply. This greatly helps prevent greater damage to the other dog as well as ends things much faster than any other method of breaking up a fight.
E Collars/Remote collars(‘shock’ collars): Fantastic for any training need, very versatile.
They work the same as a TENS unit (Dr. Ho!), they do NOT electrocute. This tool has revolutionized dog training with it’s versatility and ability to have more precise timing mostly in the situation of off leash/distance training. It has made it far easier on dog owners as trainers and owners alike are able to get to their goals much quicker than before when used properly.
Bark collars can come with options from a strong ecollar stim, vibration and tone. This is a good option for dogs that are incessant barkers and are not phased by other forms of being corrected such as throw chains(thrown on the floor near the dog to catch them off guard and interrupt the current behaviour), petcorrector/convincer(compressed air – makes loud ‘SHHH’ noise), yelling NO etc. Again you have to be careful of
brand here and there options for how it goes off, some go off at the vibration from the vocal chords and some are triggered by sound (not so good in a multi dog situation).
When people see injuries from theses collars, it’s the same reasons as the e-collars.
loosen up really easily and quickly so often they can still back out. This applies pressure around the neck to guide or correct but wasn’t even invented as a training collar, it was simply made to prevent dogs from escaping their collars by tightening. Injuries commonly seen are damaged trachea (you will know if the dog coughs frequently and with little pressure to the throat area). Of course this is due to misuse but these are misused frequently including by some ‘professionals’.
uncomfortable because of the bit of extra pressure that gets applied in front of the chest. Often it can deter a little bit but once a good distraction comes along, they still have lots of power. This also has shown to cause joint damage because of the way it restricts their movement and pulls on their shoulder area.
If your dog has a neck injury that needs to heal, this can certainly be a good option but usually this is a tool you want to use for a pulling sport. Note: there are padded and wider harnesses that are best for pulling sports such as weight pull.
Head Halters (haltis/canny collars):
Often when this tool gets put on, dogs hate it, they’re uncomfortable even when you’re not applying pressure. Many dogs get awful wear marks and even eye infections (likely partly to do with incorrect fitting but again, many people are not fitting and using
They were made based off of halters used for horses with the thought that where you direct the head, the body will follow.
Just like any of the other tools we’re listing, this has it’s place. It can be an effective ‘management’ tool for someone with a pulling dog but I have also watched people be dragged across the park still with this on.
This can be a good starting option for dogs that have had someone using other collars wrong and desensitizing the dog to lots of pressure on the neck.
For some dogs, once the initial frustration wears off, it can actually have a bit of a calming effect.
It is not often something we use because of it’s higher risk for injury if a dog does decide to suddenly pull after something and because it is just not as effective for leash communication.
receptors where we have around 6 million
While this can be an effective tool for some to stop the nuisance barking, personally I find this one to provide more undue punishment than a bark collar, the strong scent lingers right around and in their nose even after the negative behaviour has stopped. There are pros and cons to both, and like any tool, you should be applying training not just grabbing a tool to hopefully stop all your problems that are likely due to lack of rules and or exercise.
Flat buckle collars:
This collar is what everyone has usually for the dog tags and for fashion. This is what a dog should be able to graduate to once they’ve been trained and gotten to a place where you no longer need to worry about them trying to flee from something, trying to attack something or trying to pull you.
loud ‘shhhh’ sound) and scat mats (a mat that you can put in your kitchen entrance or on a piece of furniture that you do not want your dog to be on – it will provide a mildly uncomfortable shock that will catch them off guard).
**While I have my preferences for tools, I remain open to the use of all of them depending on the situation and individual in front of me in order to achieve the best results for the dog and their owner. We want a happy dog that also listens well and that is very doable no matter the tool (although some tools will limit your success greatly unless you are exceptional with your dog psychology/behaviour understanding) or if they need to be corrected. Corrections DO NOT equal abuse, there is a huge difference, part of which is the intent of the human (or dog) applying the correction. Most dogs actually respect it (and sometimes even appreciate it, if done appropriately, generally with anxiety/fear cases) as they are being guided and that’s what they’re looking for.**